Building the Stem Part 1

 The next step after assembling the mould stations to the strongback is to build the stems at the bow and stern. Following the rough plans of a Simple Steam Box from the website: http://americanwoodworker.com, I was able to build a steam box so I could bend the white oak for the stems. Having cut the plank of white oak into 16 1/4" x 3/4" strips the day before, I was then able to steam the stems to be able to bend around the stern and the bow. As Ted Moores in Canoecraft says, "The stems... are a vital link in the skeleton of a canoe. Inside stems support the ends of the strips, improving control during planking. Outside stems originally sealed the exposed end-grain of cedar planking." Building the steam box took a lot longer than I expected but I considered it to be a better option than the wood steaming in a cardboard tube. Once the strips of white oak were clamped into place, they have to dry for 24 hours on the form and 24 hours off, until they can be epoxied together. I don't think I will be able to work tonight but I will start ripping the cedar boards and coving and beading their edges...

Setting up the Mould

For this post, I am combining two days of work into one. Yesterday, I finished assembling the bow and stern, as pictured on the right. Yet, today was the exciting day, in which, I was to set up the moulds and finally see the cedar strip canoe take shape. Ted Moore's in Canoecraft states, "As you set up the mould, prepare for a thrill as the first skeletal image of your canoe emerges." Now it may have seemed that all canoes for centuries were built on mould forms because it seems like a "no brainer," but that was not the case. Up until around 1857, the most advanced canoes were still dugouts, like the native american craft. For in 1857, John Stephenson is credited for being the first person to think of building a canoe off of a form. In this case the form was a dugout canoe called the Shooting Star. As John Jennings writes in The Canoe- A Living Tradition, "the building method was deceptively simple and used basic well known technology: a combination of techniques that would be familiar to builders of boats, carriages, wagons, sleighs, furniture and containers." (or basically everyone in that era) I am not sure where the idea of sectional forms came from, but I will find out. However, focusing back on my construction of the forms, the bottom of each mould was screwed to 2 x 4's in the strongback. With a sight line, as seen in the picture at left, the tops of each station, which were grooved at their center, were lined up almost perfectly. And thus the mould stations are complete and the next phase is bending the white oak at the bow and stern to form the stem.

Attaching the Bow and Stern

 The next stage was to attach the bow and stern to the strongback. The form pictured to the right I think will be the bow, since I feel like it is more square than the other form. However, before I attached the bow, I drilled seven holes in it with a drill press. These holes will help the clamps attach the inside stem to the bow in order that they can be bent. I worked at a slower pace because I was learning more about what I needed to do as I worked, which often led to me re-drilling screws. (and remember... every screwed must be pre-drilled with a drill bit to ensure that is flush) This is a very informative post, in which I am just recounting what I did. Yesterday, I worked on attaching the bow and stern and station #6 and #7, but more information about that will be in the next post....

Building the Strongback Part 2

 Writing this blog update a couple days late, I should have written this on friday, but worked on the project instead. Finally, I have moved into the garage, which means I am making progress. (I just wish it didn't have to snow the day I started to work in the garage. It's freezing.) To compensate for the weather, I took the dusty heater from the basement to warm me up. The next step in building the strongback was to attach the legs with 2in. x 10in boards to form not only to strengthen the strongback, but ensure that it does not twist in the change of weather. Since I did not want to buy a 16 ft. 2 x 10, I screwed the board together connecting it with a 2 x 4. The length of the strongback is 15 ft, so stripping the bow and stern will be easier, not to mention removing the canoe from the strongback. The next step was to screw down the 2 x 10 on the top of the strongback, making sure that is was even and level. I have to say, I like working in the garage better because of the additional room. The next step is attaching the bow and stern to the strongback, which I did over the next days, Saturday and Monday.