Stripping the Canoe Part 2

 As I continued to strip the canoe, the process became easier and harder. It was easier because the strips were getting smaller and smaller, yet the angle became more severe around the hull from the stem-line to the bottom of the canoe. Without the cove and bead of the strips, I think stripping the canoe would be an impossibility. Using the Q-Tip method to provide a little space to expose the staple, each strip was stapled first to Station #0. A lot of stress was placed to get this strip in place due to the wood not wanting to curve with the canoe. However, once the middle was stapled the middle rest of the strips were much easier to staple. Once the strips had worked themselves up and no longer needed to be connected to the stern and bow, I had to cut each strip with the cutting blade on a Dremmel so it would fit in place. I went through more than about half gallon of Titebond III to glue the strips together at this point. I still need to strip the middle of the canoe which I will use Western Red Cedar which is colored through with white, and the rest of the bottoms of the stern and bow. Throughout the stripping process, I tried to make sure that all the staples lined up, so when they are removed there will be a line of very small holes, which instead of taking away from the beauty of the canoe can actually enhance it. Finally, the next step once the stripping is complete is to remove all the staples, fill in the slights and openings and then sand it smooth.

Stripping the Canoe Part 1

 At Last! I was finally able to start stripping the canoe! Before I did, I applied another layer of masking tape to the mould stations, to ensure the glue does not stick to the plywood. Then the time came for me to put on my first strip, yet I realized that 1/2" staples with a stapler were not going to hold the strips in place, so I needed longer staples. After going to Lowes, I bought 5/8in. staples but for a pneumatic stapler. Then when working on the canoe the next day, the new staples worked out much better, but with the psi strength of the pnuematic, my dad had the idea to place a Q-tip in between the two edges of the staple, so when removed, had the edge of the staple showing which would help when the staples had to be removed. After ensuring that the first strip was level with the floor. (The floor was not level, I realized to my surprise) then the stripping process moved a constant pace and I was able to attach seven strips to the frame. The cove and bead on the strips were tremendously helpful, seeing that the glue was able to be nicely squeezed into the cove and the bead of the next fit snuggly into the cove. Any excess glue was either wiped off with either my hand or a damp cloth. The overhanging strips over the stems were cut a little more than flush with a coping saw and were then glued and stapled to the stem.

Carving the Stems

 While scarfing the strips together, I was also working on carving the stems on the bow and stern. Carving with a spokeshave and a rasp, the stem which had been glued together needed to be carved so the cedar strips could be glued to it at the right angle. Thus, the angle became more severe as I moved down the stem because of the step raise of the mould stations. starting with a roughly 3˚ angle, and moved down to a more 10˚ angle near the stem-line. The angle was produced by taking a 8ft. Cedar piece and lining up along the mould stations, needed to lie flat on the stem in order to be in the right spot. This process was time consuming as the spokeshave blade continued to raise on one side or another making carving very hard. (I also had the opportunity to sharpen the blade with wet sandpaper.) After achieving the correct angle needed all the way down the stem, I then sanded it with an orbital sander to have a smooth surface, so the glue had more surface contact area.
Also, following the same process as before, I steamed six more white oak strips and formed them to the stem mould. However, it being cold in the garage, I tried to glue them together a day later but it was too cold to dry. Then, keeping the heater on from then on, I sanded the white glue off and reglued them together and I ended with much better results.

Scarfing the Strips

The third and final preparatory stage of the strips was scarfing cutting the strips so that they are able to be glued together. The ratio of length of the scarf cut to the width of the board should be 8:1, which I learned from my advisor. Cutting the boards in a sled which was able to run along the table saw, (I need to take a picture of it and post it later) After cutting the strips the next job was all the strips needed to be brought upstairs to the garage to be glued together. At this point, I have completely taken over the entire garage.Ted Moore's in Canoecraft advises that the strips be a foot or more longer than the canoe itself, thus I only used strips that would make the strips to be 17 foot and longer. After gluing the joint together with Titebond III, it was then clamped together with clothespins. (My dad's idea. I was going to use a heavy weight sandwiching the strips between two sheets of wax paper) The clothespins were brilliant because they were easier to work with. After 24 hours of drying, the clothespins were removed and the scarf joint was sanded on a belt sander for a smooth surface. And as posted before, I have 62 17' and longer Western Red Cedar strips.