Stripping the Canoe Part 2

 As I continued to strip the canoe, the process became easier and harder. It was easier because the strips were getting smaller and smaller, yet the angle became more severe around the hull from the stem-line to the bottom of the canoe. Without the cove and bead of the strips, I think stripping the canoe would be an impossibility. Using the Q-Tip method to provide a little space to expose the staple, each strip was stapled first to Station #0. A lot of stress was placed to get this strip in place due to the wood not wanting to curve with the canoe. However, once the middle was stapled the middle rest of the strips were much easier to staple. Once the strips had worked themselves up and no longer needed to be connected to the stern and bow, I had to cut each strip with the cutting blade on a Dremmel so it would fit in place. I went through more than about half gallon of Titebond III to glue the strips together at this point. I still need to strip the middle of the canoe which I will use Western Red Cedar which is colored through with white, and the rest of the bottoms of the stern and bow. Throughout the stripping process, I tried to make sure that all the staples lined up, so when they are removed there will be a line of very small holes, which instead of taking away from the beauty of the canoe can actually enhance it. Finally, the next step once the stripping is complete is to remove all the staples, fill in the slights and openings and then sand it smooth.